A luxury safari camp at golden hour in the Maasai Mara, Kenya

The Ongeri Journal · Written in Nairobi

Luxury Safari Stories and Guides

What a safari costs, when to go, where the herds are, and which camps earn their price.

Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Zanzibar, the Seychelles and Mauritius, from the people who plan the journeys.

The Short Answer

A journal for people planning a safari.

The Ongeri Expeditions blog is where our team in Nairobi answers the questions guests ask before a luxury safari: what a safari costs, when to travel, where the Great Migration is in each month, what gorilla permits cost in Rwanda and Uganda, and which camps are worth the money in the Maasai Mara, the Serengeti, Amboseli, Laikipia, Zanzibar, the Seychelles and Mauritius. Every guide is written from our own visits and kept up to date, and every one ends where you can ask us to plan it.

Latest

Fresh from the field.

Field notes, camp openings and planning guides, written by our team in Nairobi and kept up to date.

Where to Stay

Angama Mara or Mahali Mzuri?

The view against the game, the Mara Triangle against a private conservancy, and which of the two suits your safari. An honest comparison.

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Every Guide

The whole journal, by subject.

Choose a subject, or search by name. Every guide is written by the people who plan the journeys.

guides

Where to Stay

Angama Mara or Mahali Mzuri?

The view against the game, the Mara Triangle against a private conservancy, and which of the two suits your safari. An honest comparison.

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Where to Stay

Is Singita Sasakwa Worth It?

What the rate actually includes, what 350,000 private acres give you that the national park cannot, and the three alternatives we suggest instead.

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Planning

Reserve, Triangle or Conservancy?

Where you sleep decides where you may drive, at what hours and beside how many other vehicles. The decision that shapes a Mara week most.

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Planning

A Private Vehicle: When It Is Worth It

What it costs, what changes when you have one, and the six times we say yes. Also the four times we tell guests to spend the money elsewhere.

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Planning

What USD 1,500 a Night Actually Buys

Two camps, the same night, a thousand dollars apart. What the money is really doing, band by band, in the Maasai Mara.

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Planning

Maasai Mara Fees, Explained

Park fees, conservancy fees and what camps include, with worked examples for a family in August and the resident rates in shillings.

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Wildlife

The Most Famous Lions in Africa: The Marsh Pride

Millions know the Maasai Mara without ever having been, through a marsh, a pride of lions and thirteen years of the BBC. Who Notch was, what happened in 2015, and whether you can still see them.

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Field Notes

Stargazing on the Equator

Kenya sits on the line, so you can see the Southern Cross and the Plough on the same night. What to look for, when to go, and why safari camps make superb observatories.

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Field Notes

A Safari Glossary

From askari to sundowner, kopje to conservancy. Every word you will hear in Kenya, and the difference between a park, a reserve and a conservancy that changes your safari more than the camp does.

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Travelling With Requirements

Halal Luxury Safari in Kenya

Prayer on the equator, where the halal meat actually comes from, and the one question about alcohol at camp that no brochure answers.

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Travelling With Requirements

Kosher Safari in Kenya

What is genuinely possible in the bush, what has to be flown in, and why keeping Shabbat on the equator is easier than almost anywhere else on earth.

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Travelling With Requirements

Coeliac Disease on Safari in Kenya

Gluten free and coeliac safe are two different standards. Most Kenyan camps meet the first, far fewer meet the second, and this is how to tell them apart.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Camps and Lodges in the Serengeti

Where you stay in the Serengeti matters more than anywhere else in Africa. Eleven of the finest camps and lodges, arranged by region and by season so you wake where the herds are.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Resorts in Zanzibar

One thing decides where you stay in Zanzibar, and most guides skip it: the tide. A coast by coast guide to the island's finest resorts, and how to pair it with a safari.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Resorts in the Seychelles

Three and a half hours from Nairobi, and the most natural place to end a safari. Eight resorts across Mahe, Praslin and the private islands, and how to choose between them.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Resorts in Mauritius

A barrier reef rings almost the whole island, which is why the water lies so still. Seven resorts coast by coast, when to go, and how Mauritius compares with the Seychelles.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Camps and Lodges in Amboseli

Elephants beneath Kilimanjaro, and some of the last great tuskers on earth. The camps and lodges we book most, and why the private conservancies beat the park.

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Where to Stay

Luxury Camps, Lodges and Villas in Laikipia

Kenya's quiet luxury heartland, where private conservancies allow walking, riding and night drives. Ten of the finest stays, from exclusive use villas to tented lodges.

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New Openings

Wilderness Mara Opens in the Mara Triangle

A complete rebuild of Little Governors' Camp at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment. Twelve tented suites, a photographic studio, and the quietest corner of the Mara.

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Celebrations

Destination Weddings on Safari and the Islands

Say your vows in the Maasai Mara or on a beach in Zanzibar, the Seychelles or Mauritius. A guide to safari and island weddings, the legal side and the cost.

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Safari Styles

Luxury Small Group Safaris in East Africa

Set departures of six to twelve guests, great value, expert hosts and single friendly. What a small group safari is, who it suits, and what it costs.

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Honeymoons

How Much Does a Honeymoon Safari Cost?

A clear 2026 and 2027 guide to honeymoon safari prices, from a safari only escape to a full bush and beach journey in Zanzibar, the Seychelles or Mauritius.

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Planning

Rwanda or Uganda for Gorilla Trekking?

Compare permit costs, access, scenery and lodges, and choose the right country for your luxury gorilla safari in 2026 and 2027.

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Planning

Gorilla Trekking Cost: Rwanda and Uganda Permits

Rwanda permits are USD 1,500 and Uganda USD 800 in 2026 and 2027. A clear guide to permit prices, the four hour habituation option, and what a luxury gorilla safari costs.

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Why Ongeri

Why Travellers Choose Ongeri for an East African Safari

The honest reasons travellers choose us: local roots in Nairobi, tailormade journeys, the finest camps, and signature touches like meet and greet, lounge access and complimentary city nights.

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Read enough? Let us plan it.

Tell us roughly when you would like to travel and who is coming, and a safari designer in Nairobi will send a real route and an exact price within 24 hours.

Or browse our signature journeys, the camps and lodges we use, and the best time to go on safari.