Angama Mara or Mahali Mzuri?
The view against the game, the Mara Triangle against a private conservancy, and which of the two suits your safari. An honest comparison.
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The Ongeri Journal · Written in Nairobi
What a safari costs, when to go, where the herds are, and which camps earn their price.
Kenya, Tanzania, Rwanda, Uganda, Zanzibar, the Seychelles and Mauritius, from the people who plan the journeys.
The Ongeri Expeditions blog is where our team in Nairobi answers the questions guests ask before a luxury safari: what a safari costs, when to travel, where the Great Migration is in each month, what gorilla permits cost in Rwanda and Uganda, and which camps are worth the money in the Maasai Mara, the Serengeti, Amboseli, Laikipia, Zanzibar, the Seychelles and Mauritius. Every guide is written from our own visits and kept up to date, and every one ends where you can ask us to plan it.
Field notes, camp openings and planning guides, written by our team in Nairobi and kept up to date.
The view against the game, the Mara Triangle against a private conservancy, and which of the two suits your safari. An honest comparison.
Read the guide →If you are planning a first safari, these answer the questions we are asked every week: the cost, the timing, the country and the camps.
Choose a subject, or search by name. Every guide is written by the people who plan the journeys.
The view against the game, the Mara Triangle against a private conservancy, and which of the two suits your safari. An honest comparison.
Read more →What the rate actually includes, what 350,000 private acres give you that the national park cannot, and the three alternatives we suggest instead.
Read more →Where you sleep decides where you may drive, at what hours and beside how many other vehicles. The decision that shapes a Mara week most.
Read more →What it costs, what changes when you have one, and the six times we say yes. Also the four times we tell guests to spend the money elsewhere.
Read more →Two camps, the same night, a thousand dollars apart. What the money is really doing, band by band, in the Maasai Mara.
Read more →Park fees, conservancy fees and what camps include, with worked examples for a family in August and the resident rates in shillings.
Read more →Millions know the Maasai Mara without ever having been, through a marsh, a pride of lions and thirteen years of the BBC. Who Notch was, what happened in 2015, and whether you can still see them.
Read more →Kenya sits on the line, so you can see the Southern Cross and the Plough on the same night. What to look for, when to go, and why safari camps make superb observatories.
Read more →From askari to sundowner, kopje to conservancy. Every word you will hear in Kenya, and the difference between a park, a reserve and a conservancy that changes your safari more than the camp does.
Read more →Prayer on the equator, where the halal meat actually comes from, and the one question about alcohol at camp that no brochure answers.
Read more →What is genuinely possible in the bush, what has to be flown in, and why keeping Shabbat on the equator is easier than almost anywhere else on earth.
Read more →Gluten free and coeliac safe are two different standards. Most Kenyan camps meet the first, far fewer meet the second, and this is how to tell them apart.
Read more →Where you stay in the Serengeti matters more than anywhere else in Africa. Eleven of the finest camps and lodges, arranged by region and by season so you wake where the herds are.
Read more →One thing decides where you stay in Zanzibar, and most guides skip it: the tide. A coast by coast guide to the island's finest resorts, and how to pair it with a safari.
Read more →Three and a half hours from Nairobi, and the most natural place to end a safari. Eight resorts across Mahe, Praslin and the private islands, and how to choose between them.
Read more →A barrier reef rings almost the whole island, which is why the water lies so still. Seven resorts coast by coast, when to go, and how Mauritius compares with the Seychelles.
Read more →Elephants beneath Kilimanjaro, and some of the last great tuskers on earth. The camps and lodges we book most, and why the private conservancies beat the park.
Read more →Kenya's quiet luxury heartland, where private conservancies allow walking, riding and night drives. Ten of the finest stays, from exclusive use villas to tented lodges.
Read more →A complete rebuild of Little Governors' Camp at the foot of the Oloololo Escarpment. Twelve tented suites, a photographic studio, and the quietest corner of the Mara.
Read more →Say your vows in the Maasai Mara or on a beach in Zanzibar, the Seychelles or Mauritius. A guide to safari and island weddings, the legal side and the cost.
Read more →Set departures of six to twelve guests, great value, expert hosts and single friendly. What a small group safari is, who it suits, and what it costs.
Read more →From about USD 6,500 per adult, with child rates and a family of four estimate. A clear 2026 and 2027 guide to the cost of a family safari in Kenya.
Read more →A clear 2026 and 2027 guide to honeymoon safari prices, from a safari only escape to a full bush and beach journey in Zanzibar, the Seychelles or Mauritius.
Read more →Compare permit costs, access, scenery and lodges, and choose the right country for your luxury gorilla safari in 2026 and 2027.
Read more →Rwanda permits are USD 1,500 and Uganda USD 800 in 2026 and 2027. A clear guide to permit prices, the four hour habituation option, and what a luxury gorilla safari costs.
Read more →A luxury rhino safari camp opened on 1 July 2026 in Kenya's Solio Game Reserve. The rates, what is included, and how to add it to your Kenya safari.
Read more →The honest reasons travellers choose us: local roots in Nairobi, tailormade journeys, the finest camps, and signature touches like meet and greet, lounge access and complimentary city nights.
Read more →What a luxury safari really costs in 2026 and 2027, what drives the price, and how to get the most from your budget across Kenya and Tanzania.
Read more →Where LGBTQ travellers are most welcome in Africa, how to travel safely and discreetly, and how to plan a private luxury safari.
Read more →Inside Amboseli's newest luxury lodge, a private concession in the Kitirua Conservancy with Kilimanjaro views, walking safaris and night drives.
Read more →Kenya or Tanzania? A luxury guide to where to go and when, comparing the Maasai Mara, the Serengeti, the seasons and the Great Migration.
Read more →A guide to eight of the best luxury Maasai Mara camps, with locations, highlights, and how to pick the right one for your safari.
Read more →Where the herds are through the year, when the Mara River crossings happen, and how to time your luxury safari for the moment you most want to witness.
Read more →Nothing matches that yet. Try another word, or ask us directly and we will answer it.
Tell us roughly when you would like to travel and who is coming, and a safari designer in Nairobi will send a real route and an exact price within 24 hours.
Or browse our signature journeys, the camps and lodges we use, and the best time to go on safari.